2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

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2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

Postby Bushman » Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:53 pm

Started pulling apart all of my thin deck motors the other night and some of the lower bearings stayed in the stator instead of coming out with the armature. Anybody have a good method of getting these out? Or am I the luckiest guy on the forum to come up with a "good" method? I have searched extensively through this site and the OTHER not-to-be-named site and found no hints of a problem solver. Jeff? Has Nick made it over to our site? Anyone?

Seems like I might be able to fab something up for a slide hammer, but sure will be tough to find something strong and thin enough to get between the bottom of the bearing and the stator. (There is a small gap to get something in.) I can't believe they made the armature exit hole the same size as the inner race.

Thanks ahead of time...
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Re: 2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

Postby roberttroll » Fri Apr 12, 2013 8:40 pm

Does jeffs deck motor rebuild doc help any? I posted it in a different thread.

http://ge-electrak.com/download/file.php?id=374
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Re: 2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

Postby Bushman » Fri Apr 12, 2013 9:12 pm

Unfortunately, no, they don't cover the lower bearing for the thin motors. I had looked through it just before posting. That was the first time I saw it and found it very descriptive, just not any details that could help.
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Re: 2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

Postby fwilliams » Sat Apr 13, 2013 11:29 am

When dealing with wheel bolt heads that become rounded off , welding another bolt to it works if care is used . The bolt gives something to grab onto . In this case welding something onto the bad bearing would be tricky - try laying the cone in ice and short durations of welding . Edit ; if doing arc welding , do not hook current lead to the cone . Just the bolt . One or two arcs will establish a current path to the bearing .
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Re: 2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

Postby pewamo758 » Sat Apr 13, 2013 5:12 pm

Hi Chad;

I had responded to your thread but didn't read it close enough to realize the bearing is still in the motor. Might try heating the housing carefully, setting it on its end and gently tapping the cone end with a brass hammer.....

Tom
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Re: 2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

Postby Bushman » Mon Apr 15, 2013 2:50 pm

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I was unable to get back to it this weekend (more vehicle work for my grandparents than expected). However, I remembered using a pilot bearing slide hammer a few times a long time ago and will be trying that when I can locate one. Michael Shaffer emailed me about the same tool and says there is one available to rent at an Auto Zone store near you. Thought about purchasing one anyway, but Harbor Freight's version is about $70 and comes with 4 different ranges of re-sizeable collets. I will try to document this as I go through this group of motors, as long as the method works well. I have also found another issue with these motors that will be a tough one to solve. These things building up moisture while sitting for too long really causes problems. In this case, the brush holder is STUCK on the upper bearing and there is no quick way to press it apart, so another method will have to be devised for that as well.
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Re: 2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

Postby Jeff Antonucci » Mon Apr 15, 2013 4:17 pm

Chad,

I've only rebuild 3 or 4 of the small dia motors, and I don'trememner any getting stuck, but lots of large dia ones do get stuck. Harold tells me the lower bearings are supposed to be locktited in with the Blue locktite, so that may be what you are running up against. I would try heat and a set of those inner diameter bearing / seal pullers. I bought the Harbor Freight set to rebuild the transaxle, but have not tried it on motor bearings, but it should work fine.

I have to admit I have destroyed a few of the lower bearing housings on the large dia motors trying to get them apart. Harold has spares for sale.
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Re: 2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

Postby Bushman » Fri Apr 19, 2013 2:51 pm

Thought I'd post a few pictures of the tools I used to remove these lower bearings and the method is fairly simple. All of the motors of this type that I have taken apart so far have had the lower bearing left in the housing/stator. If you are doing this at home, the pilot bearing slide hammer kit from Harbor Freight is a MUST. Basically, it has 4 different size collets. I used the 2nd size collet and it had to be wound almost all the way out to grab the bearing tight. The problem with this kit is that the nut to tighten it ends up inside the stator, so I used the large screwdriver in the picture to "hold" the collet from the bottom of the motor while turning the slide handle. A few good hits of the hammer and the bearings came out no problem. No loctite was found underneath the bearings, but some had a little grease and most had grass and were rusted pretty good on the bottom side, showing water penetrates that area pretty well. I think I will add some grease on the bottom side to fill that void and make it easier to remove the next time (if there is one).

For install of new bearings, I will press them onto the armature and install that way.
Attachments
2100SeriesDeckMotor_Stator.jpg
Stator with bearing removed and junk that was underneath it.
2100SeriesDeckMotor_Stator.jpg (65.06 KiB) Viewed 965 times
2100SeriesDeckMotor_Puller.jpg
Pilot bearing puller and removed bearing.
2100SeriesDeckMotor_Puller.jpg (75.47 KiB) Viewed 965 times
2100SeriesDeckMotor_Workbench.jpg
Workbench view of all tools.
2100SeriesDeckMotor_Workbench.jpg (69.13 KiB) Viewed 965 times
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Re: 2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

Postby Jeff Antonucci » Wed May 08, 2013 7:20 pm

Chad - I just had this problem pop up in one of my rebuilds. I ended up using that bearing puller inserted in the other end and pushing the bearing out from the opposite direction. I had to heat the housing to get it to release but it was real easy after I did that.
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Re: 2100 Series Deck Motor Bearing Removal

Postby Bushman » Wed May 08, 2013 7:29 pm

Glad someone else has the same problems that I run into, lol. I stayed away from the heat on these motor shells, just because they're cast aluminum. As long as it's not extensive, it's ok I agree, but if I can get it finished without it, I make an effort. This puller did great from the inside, as long as you have something to tighten up the collet. I was worried at first about the vise setup, but it did ok. Next time I'll probably put them in vertical instead of on the lip. I have a vise big enough to fit the whole bottom of those under the jaws, so that would have been a better choice. Glad you got the puller to work though.

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