Battery Pack Range Reduction

Drive motor and electrical issues

Re: Battery Pack Range Reduction

Postby Jeff Antonucci » Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:30 pm

You might be comparing apples to oranges. The E12M has a much smaller drive motor than an E15. What brand of batteries are you using? They are not all the same. I'm still of the opinion that the shut off voltage based automatic chargers are under charging the batteries, but I haven't been able to prove it yet. I think you should try repairing the on board charger and try using that and see if you get better range.
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Re: Battery Pack Range Reduction

Postby fwilliams » Wed Apr 16, 2014 12:57 am

The original chargers and batt pack especially HD pack was a very good compromise below 80 degrees and with adequate ventilation . If a smart charger could be programmed to do this - charge up to the gassing voltage and hold until amp rate settled to 1/20 th amp/hr capacity , then max capacity would be restored to batt .

The real trick would be retain the original xformer and modifying the response to the ambient temp and batt temp both.
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Re: Battery Pack Range Reduction

Postby roberttroll » Wed Apr 16, 2014 1:01 am

I have had poor luck with B&D chargers. I know for a fact that the one that i had on my motorcycle was not charging the battery properly. This is another reason why i use two different chargers. I have both a 3 bank minnkota and a DSR 4 bank wall mount that i use now and then.

The DSR is quite loud, but it will put a nice equalization charge on a battery.

http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-INC-406A-Automatic-Microprocessor-Charger/dp/B00396JEP4/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CCTY5V88204VGJCNJN5
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Re: Battery Pack Range Reduction

Postby TLB1 » Wed Apr 16, 2014 1:32 pm

I am using 6 6volt Exide batteries, But, I have not been pleased with them. I am looking into a set packaged under the durecell name. What is the no load rpm on the drive motor to be at full? The B&D smart charger is all I have until I repair the onboard charger. I check the charge level of the cells with a ball type checker to verify charge.

Different, I had to get another power use meter, it does not move, I don't want to remove the shunt wire, how do I check it? I followed the wiring diagram. Tracy
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Re: Battery Pack Range Reduction

Postby roberttroll » Thu Apr 17, 2014 12:08 am

TLB1 wrote:I am using 6 6volt Exide batteries, But, I have not been pleased with them. I am looking into a set packaged under the durecell name. What is the no load rpm on the drive motor to be at full? The B&D smart charger is all I have until I repair the onboard charger. I check the charge level of the cells with a ball type checker to verify charge.

Different, I had to get another power use meter, it does not move, I don't want to remove the shunt wire, how do I check it? I followed the wiring diagram. Tracy


I am sure someone will correct me if i am wrong, but one of the properties of the elec-trak stabilized shunt motor is it will do it's best to maintain full RPM at all times. So the no load RPM for your E15 should be 2250.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elec-Trak

I have not heard anything bad about the Duracell batteries that Sams sells. Considering their price, a set will probably be in my future. A standard ball type battery gravity meter would be a great way to check to make sure that your charger is actually charging the batteries fully.

The E15 had at least two different shunts. One was an actual shunt, the other was simply a specific length of wire. I forget the proper length. The power meter was calibrated to work with the resistance of the length of wire.

I would also love to know how to test the stock power meters.
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Re: Battery Pack Range Reduction

Postby TLB1 » Thu Apr 17, 2014 1:28 pm

I wish I still had Dad's E15, No idea where it is now. The chart you listed lists the E12M motor at 3500 rpm, seems very fast to me, however, I am going by the sound of the motor verses what I remember from the E 15, and mine seems to be turning slower. I will check with a lineshaft tach. I have the original shunt wire in place for the 'load' meter, but neither of the 2 I have deflect. I have quite a selection of antique panel meters, if I remember correctly, many are shunted internally , some externally, to protect the movement. I have a couple the peg on a aa battery.
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Re: Battery Pack Range Reduction

Postby TLB1 » Thu Apr 17, 2014 1:31 pm

1 other thing, What is the small 4 pin connection at the motor for? I saw they go to 2 very thin coils on the inside, almost like a tv degaussing coil.
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Re: Battery Pack Range Reduction

Postby roberttroll » Fri Apr 18, 2014 1:15 am

TLB1 wrote:1 other thing, What is the small 4 pin connection at the motor for? I saw they go to 2 very thin coils on the inside, almost like a tv degaussing coil.


On your E15? The connector should have two wires coming out of it. Those would be your field. If you have four wires then you have an E20 motor.. The other two wires would be for an internal temp breaker.
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Re: Battery Pack Range Reduction

Postby TLB1 » Fri Apr 18, 2014 2:25 pm

Sir, My Dad had the E-15, I have an E12M. The motor had two studs to attach the main power cables to. This other 4 wire plug looks like a computer hard drive power plug. It was bad, I had to replace it with a weatherproof 4 wire flat trailer plug. I could upload a picture. I apologize if I have been too confusing. I don't know what this does, but if I unplug it, the tractor won't reverse.....
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Re: Battery Pack Range Reduction

Postby Jeff Antonucci » Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:25 pm

The E12M motor has a centrifical switch - two of the 4 wires are for that switch. I believe the other two are for the field.

I have two sets of Sams club batteries. I've had no problems with them, but I have no experience with really good batteries to compare them to either. I can mow about 3/4 acre of slightly hilly ground with my EGT-150 before they run down.
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