electrical system

Drive motor and electrical issues

electrical system

Postby mykey » Sat May 25, 2013 4:54 pm

I have an E12-s just boughtput a new circuit board in it because nothing was working now I am only able to lift the mower deck nothing else works no gauges the seat switch works fine the ignition switch have continuity through itand the master power switch works fine new batteries in it and they are all hooked up correctly.I can get the blades to spinon the mower deck by jumping the switch with a screwdriver but can't get them to turn using that the actual switch
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Re: electrical system

Postby mfrerking » Sat May 25, 2013 6:54 pm

It is best to start with measuring where you have power and where you don't. If you haven't already done so, download a Home Owner's Manual for reference to the wiring.

Normally, the Battery gauge will indicate power when the main disconnect is turned on. Do you measure power at the disconnect? My HOM is out in the shop...not sure if the 12s has one, but no power to the main disconnect would mean CB-1 is bad.

Check your control fuse. Make sure the fuse holder is clean to make a good connection.

You can jumper the seat switch and the brake switch for testing purposes. Follow the wiring from one point to next measuring for power as you go.

Let us know what you find and we will help you track down the problem.
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Re: electrical system

Postby mykey » Sat May 25, 2013 9:35 pm

I have power to all three solonoids and to the electric
Drive motor underneath the tractor and power to the big square pto solonoid in the dash tower and I have to through the main power switcj
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Re: electrical system

Postby roberttroll » Sun May 26, 2013 8:39 pm

mykey wrote:I can get the blades to spin on the mower deck by jumping the switch with a screwdriver but can't get them to turn using that the actual switch


If jumping the PTO switch turns on your PTO then the switch must be bad.
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Re: electrical system

Postby mykey » Mon May 27, 2013 9:03 pm

I have done some more testing and have better understanding of whats going but the only thing I have been trying to figure out lately is why everytime I turn the main power disconnect switch on I trip the main push button fuse. I know something is obviously shorting out but do you know of any common things that would cause that to happen thanks for your help
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Re: electrical system

Postby mfrerking » Mon May 27, 2013 10:56 pm

[quote="mykey"]I have power to all three solonoids[quote]

Please explain how you are measuring power to all "three"? Where are you placing your meter leads?

When the main power disconnect is engaged, you should have power only to one large lug of the L contactor. Not on all large lugs of all three contactors. If the L contactor is welded, you would get power through the contactor (would measure power on both large lugs) to one large lug on the 1A contactor. If L and 1A are both welded (not likely), you would get power to one large lug on 2A.
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Re: electrical system

Postby mfrerking » Mon May 27, 2013 11:18 pm

mykey wrote:I have done some more testing and have better understanding of whats going but the only thing I have been trying to figure out lately is why everytime I turn the main power disconnect switch on I trip the main push button fuse. I know something is obviously shorting out but do you know of any common things that would cause that to happen thanks for your help


If by "main push button fuse" you mean the circuit breaker mounted on the exterior of the dash panel, in the wiring diagram it is called CB-2.

CB-2 should have three wires. One originating from the meter shunt. One going to the battery charger. And another going to the accessory receptacle.

Is your charger plugged in when CB-2 is tripping?

I am still concerned your Battery gauge is not functioning as well. Please verify the cable attached to positive post of the rear pack is the one attached to the negative post of the front pack. This can be done by removing both from the battery post and doing a continuity check.
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Re: electrical system

Postby mykey » Tue May 28, 2013 5:21 pm

I have power to the solonoids measuring it by having my meter on one of the back battery terminals and the other positive on one of the selenoid post. the wires to my battery gauge have 36 volts to them and that is using one wire is negative and the other is a positive on my meter but the gauge isn't showing anything so the gauge is obviously bad. and my main power cut off switch works fine I tested it by running a continuity tester it and it's working properly but whenever I switch it on the main push button switch on the firewall on the outside trips.where do you find this wiring diagram at that would be helpful if I could get a link to it.thanks a lot.
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Re: electrical system

Postby Bushman » Tue May 28, 2013 7:03 pm

http://www.myelec-traks.com/OPS-74-4035.pdf

I believe that's it. Has all of the tractors in it, so make sure you "flip" to the right one. Also, there is a simplified troubleshooting manual, but it does not have the E12S in it, although it's basically the same as an early E15.

If you're not blowing, or already blew, the control fuse, then the short has to be across the motor or through the PTO circuit somehow. I know you said the PTO spins the deck motors, so will have to go from there. Sounds to me like you will need to go through each circuit independently. Seems odd that CB-2 would be popping when the motor isn't running, although i've seen some really wierd things previous owners have done. I would check the connections AT the motor to make sure it is hooked up correctly. You should not have voltage at the motor when the controls and the key switch are in the off positions.

This one might take some time Mark!

Good luck mykey.

Chad
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Re: electrical system

Postby mfrerking » Tue May 28, 2013 8:58 pm

Chad, I agree this might take some time.

Mykey,

It is sounding like you have a short. You might check wire #2 running back to CB-1 on the traction motor or #5 which returns back to L contactor. The traction motor pulley will often rub through to the wiring.

It is not normal to get voltage readings to all three contactors. If there is a short to the frame, you might get a voltage reading...just very little current.

CB-2 protects the charging circuit. So, it has either gone bad or there is over-current being fed to the circuit.

I am not 100% sure you should be able to read 36 volts on the meter itself, without one lead on a battery....might have to go out and try that myself.
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